While the usual Swiss suspects of the 1960s often steal the spotlight, the true enthusiast knows that Movado during this era was an absolute hotbed of quality, innovation, and seriously cool design. The brand was a true manufacture with a unique and confident aesthetic, and their “Sub-Sea” line of robust, water-resistant watches was every bit a match for its more famous contemporaries. This Tempomatic is a fantastic example of what makes vintage Movado so compelling.
The late 1960s and early 1970s were a time of liberation in watch design, and this Sub-Sea is a pure product of its time. The classic, round cases of the 50s gave way to bolder, more angular forms, and dials became canvases for texture and experimentation. The “Tempomatic” name designated Movado’s reliable automatic movements, while the “Sub-Sea” moniker was a promise of a durable case construction meant to withstand the rigors of daily life, whether at the office or on an adventure. It was Movado’s answer to the everyday sporting watch, but executed with their signature modernist flair.
This particular example has an incredible personality. The 35mm stainless steel case has a fantastic presence, defined by its sharp, angular lugs that feel both robust and sophisticated. The dial is a work of art—a vertically brushed grey surface that plays with the light beautifully, accented by faceted, applied hour markers that are pure 1970s cool. The simple dauphine handset and date window at 3 o’clock complete the handsome layout. But for us, the best part might be the caseback: a stunning, deeply-engraved medallion of a sea king holding his trident, a bold and awesome symbol of the watch’s aquatic aspirations.
This watch has lived a life, and its condition tells that story with pride. The case is strong and sharp, appearing unpolished with its original factory lines intact. The dial has developed an honest, characterful patina, particularly around its lower edge, these are not flaws, but the authentic marks of time on a watch that was worn and enjoyed as intended. The fantastic caseback engraving remains incredibly crisp and detailed.